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After leaving my apartment in Tivat, Montenegro on the 24th of June, I cycled for two days down the country’s mountainous coast before cutting inland, passing through dozens of dark tunnels and flat country back roads. Cycling on, I quickly discovered what the old man had meant.

Less than 20 kilometers from the border, it started to rain and I slipped on my jacket for the first time in months. After passing through what must have been the 8th or 9th tunnel of the day, I came across three cyclists (two young men and a woman) who were standing on the roadside, tending to one another and wiping blood from their arms, backs and faces.

I wasn’t sure, however, if he meant that people on bicycles had crashed right now, at this very moment, or if he had simply seem a group of bicyclists crash on this road at some distance point in the past.

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